A Picture's Worth...

...A picture is worth (depending on if the struggling economy has influenced this currency coversion) a thousand words. I love being behind my camera... India was so much fun to shoot and I cannot wait to go back. My time spent in India provided valuable persepective on life and my country; we don't have it so bad in America...



For more photos check out my online gallery @

http://picasaweb.google.com/roseener

Real Poverty

Children, that have the opportunity to be in school, line the streets of Mumbai as a yellow taxi cab pulls slowly to the curb. The cab is spotted and a group of children run to it pressing themselves tightly against the windows exterior as if someone famous is inside. A girl, maybe 10, approaches the window a bit slower; slower because she holds the weight of a baby who, from her arms, reaches out with tiny hands for food along with the rest.





A young male, white and seemingly odd in this crowd, walks through an endless beach on a grey day and is swarmed by orphan children - each with there own skill or souvenir to sell. As the same tourist leaves the beach he is followed by a tail of children. He enters a similar yellow cab and its door will not close fully because a young mother stands in the way; she shows desperation as she makes a final sale - an item he will never use. Somewhere else a child is hit because she failed to sell a bundle of flowers to tourists passing by. With all this struggle children still laugh and play - yet, with many wide smiles another problem, tooth decay, is clearly revealed.

Poverty is an inescapable truth in India. For me, this level of poverty is a true shock; culture shock for a first time, in a big way. I understand poverty exist in any country, but in India a huge gap between the rich and the poor, widening by the massive population, pushes a poverty problem to the magnitude of a bottomless trench of numbers and confusion. There has to be a solution, at least for some. Maybe I am naive and I am failing to recognize a sad truth... but I can't see it that way.

This blog is dedicated to children of India, and I hope within my group of friends and family it raises awareness. Awareness of the children in India who for some reason or another never experience the opportunity of an education. Awareness of the street beggars who are torn from schools because someone else thinks they are worth more on the street. This entry, for purpose, is my second to last. It will near the top of this blog's beginning and I hope you place it on your heart and take the time to think about the issue.



I was most often uncomfortable taking photo's of the poor. Uncomfortable in myself, in my often unappreciated daily blessing's and awkwardly held up by my inexperience. Avoiding the exchange rather than realizing the permant nature of a photograph. When I did take photo's, I wondered how the children got there - to this street. Was it organized? Where people profiting from children who where being robbed an education? If not, why weren't they in school? Have they ever seen a doctor? Have they ever seen a toothbrush? I still am very uncomfotable, uneducated, and inexperienced, but my experiences this summer have given me something to digest and undoubtedly put a new shape to my future



If you are in a situation where you can support an organization doing work within India or if you would like to volunteer yourself I strongly encourage you to do so. You will make a difference - I've collected a list of promising sights to route your efforts below. If you cannot agree with any of my selections I promise there are many more to be found. Thank you!

When I go back, I would like to volunteer with…
Many of these are volunteer/vacation opportuties wich seem like practical and exciting ways to shape the world. enjoy!

http://www.volunteersindia.org/?gclid=CJ6_ie-Y1pwCFSYoawodPGTAJg - the “shake hands” program seems to offer relatively affordable rates compared to other volunteer/travel sites.

http://www.globalvolunteers.org/india/default.asp - Based out of St. Paul, Minnesota this organization is a seasoned vet when it comes to volunteer vacations.

http://www.earthwatch.org/ - Very cool site/ very expensive. Make a difference by volunteering with scientists in the field.

http://www.developingworldconnections.org/CMS/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=7&Itemid=16 - This organization focuses on providing essential resources (such as water) to Bhinder, a small city in the dry Thar desert of Rajasthan.

http://www.one-international.com/volunteer.html - This site focuses on making a change in the lives of children living on the streets of Mumbai.

http://www.globaldentalrelief.org/ - I noticed tooth decay every day in India – volunteer with this group and work to maintain the integrity of a child’s enamel. Tooth brushes for everyone!

http://www.help-education.org/volunteer.html - Himalayan education lifeline program

http://www.peacecorps.gov/ - The Real Deal Hollyfield – maybe just leave your deodorant at home because you are going to run out anyway.

http://www.aidindia.org/main/ - Association for India’s Development (AID)

http://www.golongitude.org/www/Longitude_Volunteer_Ghana_India.html. This Rhode Island non-profit has put together a structured and purpose filled website site that I think was my favorite. Also, it left me with this quote that I really liked:

“Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all people cry, laugh, eat, worry, and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends”

- Maya Angelou

Agra, India

Agra (Home of the Taj Mahal) - Population: 1.6 million
Stay Duration: Day Trip - July 27th

When we decided to make the trip to see the Taj Mahal, "world wonder of India", We had a debate on what the other six wonders were. Surely the Great Wall of China, Machu Picchu, the Pyramids, maybe Mount Rushmore, the Statue of Liberty, Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Colosseum, the big Jesus in South America and... OK... so we are definitely over 7 - But, What are the "seven wonders of the world?" I tried to figure out...

You pick! http://www.vote7.com/n7w - This website allows you to make the big decisions... the only problem is The Great Wall, Taj Mahal and all other expected choices are not options on this survey. This sight is all natural, very limited, and i think misleading for serious world wonder seekers like myself - But, it was fun, and here are the seven destinations that received a tick on my final ballot:

1. Great Barrier Reef, 2. Maldives, 3. Galapagos Islands, 4. Uluru, 5. Grand Canyon, 6. Cliffs of Moher, and 7. The Amazon

If that's not satisfying Wonder club suggests... (http://www.wonderclub.com/AllWorldWonders.html) WC had its own idea of what the seven wonders of the world should be. In fact they had nine different ways to fill out this wondrous list - Oddly, many of their lists containing more that seven wonders!

So what are the seven world wonders? When in doubt, consult Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wonders_of_the_World) Wikipedia is always a viable and thorough option; it should not surprise anyone that wikipedia has not nine wonder filled lists - but ten! Even though there seemed to be more world wonder lists than there are colors in the rainbow, one list caught my eye and felt familiar. That list was the New 7 Wonders Foundation's seven wonders of the world and stemmed from an organization that commenced its thorough voting process in 2001 and announced its top 7 in 2007. It goes like this:

1. The Great wall of China, 2. Petra (Jordan), 3. Christ the Redeemer (Brazil), 4. Machu Picchu (Peru), 5. Chichen Itza (Mexico), 6. Roman Colosseum (Italy), 7. Taj Mahal! (India), Honorable Mention: The Great Pyramid

My Thoughts: Christ the Redeemer is enormous, stands upon a mountain, and looks over a beautiful city (Rio de Janeiro) - Pretty cool, right? But, It opened to the public October 12th, 1931 - where is the mystery, where is the wonder?

Sadly, the Great Pyramid of Egypt got short changed. This Giza necropolis landmark should not only have made the list but its wide base should sit atop it. Here are the great pyramid's pros: The great pyramid dates back to 2560 BC (Ancient!) making the rest of the world wonders look younger than the Jonas Brothers. In a savage desert environment, with some of the limestone bricks weighing upward of 60 tonnes, and being transported hundreds of miles away with no help from modern machinery it is of great wonder how the Egyptians managed to form this pointy landmark. Moving beyond the history, the pyramids are stunning and sit upon a equally stunning desert backdrop. Negatives: slave labor, locusts, and sandstorms...

Also confusing, isn't Chichen Itza a sight filled with less impresive, pyramid-like structures modernized by the addition of stairs? lol.. But that's how the cookie crumbles.

Agra action --------------------------------------------------------------------------
Agra was our last day trip, last train ride and last experience, outside of Delhi. The Taj Mahal was a beautiful tomb - we took a lot of photos, appreciated its wonder, and took off.

Last Train - During my trip i experienced the indian rail system via 1st class AC, 2nd class, and sleeper sleeper. 1st class AC is very comfortable (but a bit boring). sleeper class is a bit too exciting (and congested) and we ended swapping train cars and moving to another 2nd class cart. 2nd class is still an adventure - children run through the walkway selling chai, books, singing, dancing, all while performing back bends and somersaults! If you walk to the end of the cabin you can poke your head out an open train door as it chugs along the scenic countryside. If you go to India traveling by train is a must do.

Petha and Mango pancakes

Petha - This delicious Indian sweet is well known in Agra - it is made from the rind of the ash gourd (AKA white pumpkin) and has a surprising variety of textures and can be prepared with multiple variations in flavor -my favorite: coconut and saffron. Check it out @ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petha

Mango Pancakes - Just outside of the Taj Mahal, we past through an exciting street lined with a hundred shops (containing the same token Taj souvenirs), and crowded by their owners who were shouting rapidly fluctuating prices. Finally we made our way through the gauntlet of shops and arrived at the foot of a small hole in the wall diner. It looked appropriate for backpacker types, so we walked in, sat down, and took a look at a menu... and I got excited. Mango Pancakes! I had wanted a sweet meal (not a rich dessert) for weeks. Until that point I was convinced sweet meals, those served with maple syrup, honey butter and fruit, did not exist in India. We ordered, ate, and a craving I had suffered from for weeks was fully satisfied.

Delhi, India

Delhi (The Ancient Metropolis) - Population: 15.9 million
Stay duration: July 24th - July 31st.



We arrived in Dehli by train and ran as fast as we could to catch the last metro to Jaipaul's relatives home. Finally we had arrived at our final destination. I set aside my big blue backpack aside for a week and enjoyed India in a new way - my Delhi experience was full of home cooked meals, bazaars/markets and beautiful buildings. In Delhi i used my camera less and my eyes more. My stomach settled and adapted. I felt comfortable and at home!

Delhi Daytrips ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sights - The Gate of India, Lotus Temple, the red fort, and more..



Shopping in Delhi - The shops are cheap here! Dress clothes for the Western States Chiropractic College clinic could be found at Kouton's, an Indian department store which was enjoying a constant 80% off sale on men's clothing. Souvenirs where jumping up from all directions and could always be bargained for. Biggest Bargain: At the underground market in central Delhi the price of a 4gig camera memory card shrunk from 4500 to 700 rupees with the help of Jaipaul's aunt and cousin (those ladies know what they are doing!)



Jaipaul's Family - Staying with J's Family was such a fun experience! I enjoyed every day, every meal, and every adventure we had that week - they made my trip!

Jaipur, India

Jaipur (The Pink City) Population: 2.3 million
Stay Duration: July 20th - July 24th

Jaipur is distinctly Rajasthan. Until this point in my trip I hadn't noticed what state within India I was in - Up to this point India had been shades of green and grey, busy, populated and surprisingly modern. In Jaipur the climate and color changed drastically from the early part of my journey that had hugged India's lush west coast. Rajasthan seemed like a new country, an older country, and it was a synopsis of all the components I have always associated with India - desert, temples, palaces, animals lined streets, and snake charmers.

My train ride to Jaipur reminded me off home, and when I stepped off the train it felt like North Dakota on a hot summer day - Trade sunflower fields and large combines for small plots of land, bull and plow; swap fishermen and hunters for Snake Charmers and Rickshaw drivers; trade horses, ducks and deer for camels and cows.... and... elephants, pigs, goats, monkeys, snakes, peacocks..... OK, I'm not in North Dakota (or Kansas) anymore.

I arrive In Jaipur with a couple of new friends - Some Americans from sweet home Alabama, "The Italians" - Elizabeth and Augusto, and "The train manager" back from business in Mumbai. After a long conversation with "The Manager", we came up with a rough equivalent to an American "grocery store"; he called it "Reliance Fresh".

If you know me, you know I have a strange passion for grocery stores. Saying "He/she is like a kid in a candy store" is like saying "he/she is like Eric in a grocery store." I just get excited. Unfortunately, India does not truly have a major grocery store. Reliance fresh was not that reliable (and not that fresh) and big bazaar... Well, it really wasn't that big. While India Lacks its own version of Safeway, Wally's, or Woolworth's it does have an amazing amount of individual vendors and they tend to conveniently congregate. For example, if you wanted to purchase a fresh mango you could find yourself on a busy corner with 20 fruit stalls side by side with the same fruit menu: Mangoes, papaya, pomegranate, sweet lime, apples, pears... You might suffer a bit of deja vu as you travel from stall to stall but you can find what you want; From my first experience I took home 5 mangoes, two sweet limes, and two pomegranates... delicious

Jahal Mahal (Water palace) - with Elizabeth and Augusto - "The Italians"

City Palace/Astrology Observatory with Sandra the Aussie

Eating at Ali's place -

Other Jaipur Jems ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Amber Fort

Hawa Mahal

Monkey Temple

Mumbai, India

Mumbai - Population: 21.3 million
Stay Duration: July 17th - July 19th

Mumbai is the capital city, of Maharashtra. The streets are busy here! I would ask, "How many people live here?"

I kept getting different answers 16 million, 20 million... It is hard to gage a population of a city and to get proper perspective on what that number means. For Mumbai - what paints the best picture?

The population of city proper @ 13.9 million?
Urban agglomerations @ 18.9 million?
Metro area @ 21.3 million?
or population density @ 23,000/square kilometer?

By city proper, Mumbai is the most populated city in the world. If you measure urban agglomerations Mumbai is 4th largest and is now "less populated" than New York (19 million) although by population density Mumbai (23,000/square kilometer) is more than double New York (10,359/km2)..... Mumbai is a bit less dense than Delhi (28,438/km2) and almost half as dense as the king city of density, Dhaka (45,461/km2), the capitol city of Bangladesh. Mumbai is big...

Pune to Mumbai. No more bus for this 3 hour journey - we hired a car. My time in Mumbai was quick but I split from the rest of the group on my second day and as they other three flew to Delhi; Doug went home to Canada, Aman went north to visit his family in the state of Punjab, and Jaipaul spent some time with his family in. Being by yourself is a bit different - but - I'm not the first person to travel through India alone.

Mumbai moments----------------------------------------------------------------------

Juhu Beach

The Taj Hotel

Hanging Gardens

Pune, India

Pune (Former Hillstation) - Population: 5.2 million
Stay Duration: July 13th - July 17th @ hotel Suraj Classic

Goa to Pune - We took a 500 rupee overnight bus ride to to Pune... the sun comes up and we pass by some murals that say - welcome to Pune! The bus pulls over... we are almost an hour early!.. in an odd location... is this a bus stop? Weird, why are those two guys having a fist fight? nice right hook! Yawn... OK, well lets get a rickshaw, find a hotel at city center and get this day started!.... Long story short... we hopped in a rickshaw and half an hour later we end up on the outskirts of Pune city (not city center) and the rickshaw drivers want 4800 rupees ($100 American) -- They back there case with a phony meter and meter card and even though we got them down to 4000 rupees... We got ripped off. But, i suppose that's all part of the experience..........

To fill in the rest of the story, the Bus driver was obviously in on it... he was the guy getting punched out upon arrival. Funny story at our expense - we got served!

Happenings of Pune City ---------------------------------------------

I saw Gandhi! well, a statue of him, his ashes contained in modest urn, and the palace (now museum) where he was kept captive - not too shabby for a prison. The most interesting sight her was the preserved earthly possessions of Gandhi - which all fit in a tiny glass cage = small museum.

We got wet, again. One umbrella for four people is not enough and a raincoat that is not waterproof is not really a raincoat. I got fully soaked while visiting temples, Gandhi, and the snake gardens - worth it.

Osho Ashram/resort - pray, dance, sleep, think, meditate, organic buffet... took a tour. gotta go here someday. http://www.osho.com/


Palak Paneer = 1 days vacation from vacation. Spinach and India cheese was delicious at a very popular Pune restaurant called Rama Krishna. my favorite meal so far!... until I got sick and stayed in bed for and entire day after hovering the toilet all night! Much better now and at least i got to watch my favorite movies like Sweet Home Alabama, She's All That, and of course Cool Runnings.

Very friendly hotel owner - he offered to massage my stomach when i was sick, drank tea with me, and would always be ready to have a conversation - for as long as you would like, or maybe longer!

New Mango - Mangoes are my favorite and I found a new variety! Nice and lemony... I love mangoes, read more @ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mango and http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/mango.html

SGS mall - impressive clean cool comfortable malls surrounded by the dusty hot busy streets provide a true escape for one night. Saw the Hindi movie - New York - Sooo goood!!! (subtitles would have cleared up the storyline a little bit)